Bearded Dragon
Care Page
Care Page
Popular as pets, bearded dragons or "beardies" are moderately sized lizards native to Australia.
While they are generally considered good pets even for beginner reptile owners, they do have
fairly complex nutritional and environmental requirements so need special equipment and a fair
amount of time to care for properly. However, they are social and easy to tame and handle, and
show a range of fascinating behaviors that make them interesting to watch.
Although several other species are becoming available to the pet trade, the most commonly
available variety is the central or inland bearded dragon, Pogona vitticeps. This species is native
to arid, rocky areas of Australia, and is typically tan/brown in coloration (several color morphs are
also available). Their name is derived from the spines that line their throats. These spines usually
lie flat but if the dragon feels threatened the throat is expanded causing the spines to stand up,
making the dragon look more intimidating (especially combined with their tendency to flatten their
bodies to appear wider). However, bearded dragons are generally docile, and their aggressive
displays are rarely seen in captivity. They are noted for an endearing greeting behavior, in which
they lift their front leg in an almost circular motion, so it looks like they are waving.
Virtually all bearded dragons available in America are captive bred, as Australia has strict laws
against exportation of its wildlife. With an adult size of 18-24 inches (reached by about 2 years of
age), a good sized tank/cage will be required. The expected life span of a bearded dragon is
probably around 10 years when cared for properly, although longer life spans have been reported.
Tank Size
For a single bearded dragon a bare minimum of a 40 gallon tank will be necessary, but bigger is
definitely better (55 gallon or larger is better). A secure screen top cover will also be necessary.
Substrate
Substrate is a hotly debated area of bearded dragon care. For juveniles, any loose substrate
includind sand should be avoided, as there is too great a risk of ingestion (accidental while eating
or out of curiosity) and sumbsequest intestinal impaction. Paper toweling, papers, or indoor
outdoor carpeting can all be used (make sure there are no loose threads on carpeting). For
adults, washed play sand (available at hardware stores; not fine silica sand) can be used if
desired, although paper or indoor-outdoor carpet works fine too. Do not use wood shavings, corn
cob, walnut shell, or other substrates that could cause problems if swallowed.
If sand is used, feces can be scooped out with a cat litter scoop, and the cage can be thoroughly
cleaned and disinfected several times a year.
Cage Furnishings
Bearded dragons are semi-arboreal and like to perch a little bit off the ground. A selection of
sturdy rocks, half logs, and branches can give them something to climb on, especially in the part of
the tank used as a basking area. They shoudl also be a hide (or two -- one at each end of the
temperature gradient). A couple of simple silk plants also make a nice addition to the tank (if they
are too leafy crickets and other prey may have too many hiding spots).
Lighting
Exposure to UVA and UVB radiation by use of a special light designed for reptiles is extremely
important. Special fluroescent bulbs can be found at pet stores, and these will likely run the length
of the tank, but be sure they are overlap the basking area. Your bearded dragon should be able to
get within 6-8 inches of these lights to benefit from the UV emitted. The amount of UV produced by
these bulbs decreases over time so they need to be replaced as recommended by the
manufacturer. Mercury vapor bulbs provide both UVA/UVB and heat, and can be used for both UV
production and a basking lamp. It is important that UV producing lights be directed through a
screen top rather than glass to the UV rays can reach the lizards.
Exposure to sunlight (not through a window) can also be beneficial, but if time is provided
outdoors, shade and shelter must be available so the dragon can thermoregulate. Do not place
outside in a glass sided tank as overheating will quickly occur in the sunlight.
Temperatures
Proper temperatures are also extremely important. As with other reptiles, a temperature gradient
should be provided, as well as a basking spot. The gradient should go from 80-85 F (26-30 C) on
the cool side, up to a basking temperature of about 95-105 F (35 -40 C). Night time temperatures
can fall to approximately 65-70 F (18-21 C).
Heat can be provided via an incandescent light or ceramic heater (make sure a ceramic socket is
used), or a mercury vapor bulb (again, use a ceramic socket) in a dome reflector hood. You may
need to experiment with wattage and distance from the cage to provide appropriate temperatures.
Use thermometers in the cage to monitor the temperatures at the basking spot, as well as either
end of the gradient (never rely on estimates!). If necessary, and undertank heater can be used to
supplement the heat especially at night if the room temperature is very low. A consistent light-dark
cycle (12 - 14 hours light) must be provided (using the lights on a timer is the best way to ensure a
consistent cycle).
Water
Water should be provided in a shallow dish. They can also be misted lightly, but not enough to
make the environment wet or humid, however.
Omnivorous Diet
In the wild, bearded dragons are omnivores, eating a mixture of invertebrate and vertebrate prey
(such as insects and smaller animals) as well as plant material. In captivity, they should be fed a
combination of insects (mostly crickets, with a variety of other cultured insect prey) and greens and
vegetables.
Insects
Bearded dragons are prone to impaction of their digestive system, and the chitinous exoskeletons
of insect prey can cause problems. This is especially true of crunchy bugs like mealworms, so it is
best to feed these in limited quantities, especially to juveniles. Feeding insects right after a molt will
help reduce the chance of an impaction as the exoskeletons are not as tough. Crickets also should
not be too large, especially for baby bearded dragons (a rule of thumb: feed nothing bigger than
the distance between the bearded dragons eyes). Once bearded dragons become adults, you can
offer a wider range of insects such as waxworms, silkworms, butterworms, red worms, earthworms,
and newly molted mealworms and superworms. However, these should be considered "treats" with
crickets still making up the bulk of the diet. Pinkie mice can also be offered to adults occasionally.
Juveniles should be fed insects more often than adults. Feed jubeniles at least twice a day,
offering as many appropriately-sized insects as they will eat in 10 minutes or so. Don't feed until
the tank is heated up in the morning or just before the tank cools down at night, as the heat is
necessary for digestion. Adults can be fed insects once a day (for both juveniles and adults,
greens and vegetables can be available all the time).
Insects should be gut loaded (fed nutritious food that is then passed on to the lizard) prior to
feeding, and lightly dusted with a calcium and Vitamin D (no phosphorus) supplement at each
feeding. Dust with a complete multivitamin no more than once a week.
It is risky to feed wild caught insects due to the risk of pesticide contamination.One caution: do not
feed fireflies (lightning bugs) or boxelder bugs as these are believed to be toxic to bearded
dragons!
Greens and Vegetables
In addition to insects, bearded dragons should be fed a mixture of green leafy vegetables (e.g.
dandelion greens, collard greens, chickory greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, escarole,
parsley), other vegetables (e.g. squash, carrots, green beans, peas, bell peppers), and some
fruits (e.g. berries, apples, grapes, cantaloupe, papaya, mango, blueberries, bananas). The plant
portion of the diet should be about 20-30% of the diet. These items can be chopped up and mixed
together to make a salad, which can be fed in a shallow bowl. Leafy greens can also be clipped to
the side of the cage.
Commercial Diets
Commercial diets are becoming more available, but so far the long term success of these diets is
not well known. It is always best to feed as varied a diet as possible, so if these prepared diets are
used they should just be a supplement, not the sole source of nutrition.
Handling
As mentioned, bearded dragons are generally docile, and can be easily handled with minimal
socialization or effort into taming. It is important to scoop them up under the belly and support their
belly in the palm of your hand with your fingers gently curled over the body.
Their nails do get sharp, and should be trimmed regularly. They can be trimmed in a similar
fashion to iguana claws.
While they are generally considered good pets even for beginner reptile owners, they do have
fairly complex nutritional and environmental requirements so need special equipment and a fair
amount of time to care for properly. However, they are social and easy to tame and handle, and
show a range of fascinating behaviors that make them interesting to watch.
Although several other species are becoming available to the pet trade, the most commonly
available variety is the central or inland bearded dragon, Pogona vitticeps. This species is native
to arid, rocky areas of Australia, and is typically tan/brown in coloration (several color morphs are
also available). Their name is derived from the spines that line their throats. These spines usually
lie flat but if the dragon feels threatened the throat is expanded causing the spines to stand up,
making the dragon look more intimidating (especially combined with their tendency to flatten their
bodies to appear wider). However, bearded dragons are generally docile, and their aggressive
displays are rarely seen in captivity. They are noted for an endearing greeting behavior, in which
they lift their front leg in an almost circular motion, so it looks like they are waving.
Virtually all bearded dragons available in America are captive bred, as Australia has strict laws
against exportation of its wildlife. With an adult size of 18-24 inches (reached by about 2 years of
age), a good sized tank/cage will be required. The expected life span of a bearded dragon is
probably around 10 years when cared for properly, although longer life spans have been reported.
Tank Size
For a single bearded dragon a bare minimum of a 40 gallon tank will be necessary, but bigger is
definitely better (55 gallon or larger is better). A secure screen top cover will also be necessary.
Substrate
Substrate is a hotly debated area of bearded dragon care. For juveniles, any loose substrate
includind sand should be avoided, as there is too great a risk of ingestion (accidental while eating
or out of curiosity) and sumbsequest intestinal impaction. Paper toweling, papers, or indoor
outdoor carpeting can all be used (make sure there are no loose threads on carpeting). For
adults, washed play sand (available at hardware stores; not fine silica sand) can be used if
desired, although paper or indoor-outdoor carpet works fine too. Do not use wood shavings, corn
cob, walnut shell, or other substrates that could cause problems if swallowed.
If sand is used, feces can be scooped out with a cat litter scoop, and the cage can be thoroughly
cleaned and disinfected several times a year.
Cage Furnishings
Bearded dragons are semi-arboreal and like to perch a little bit off the ground. A selection of
sturdy rocks, half logs, and branches can give them something to climb on, especially in the part of
the tank used as a basking area. They shoudl also be a hide (or two -- one at each end of the
temperature gradient). A couple of simple silk plants also make a nice addition to the tank (if they
are too leafy crickets and other prey may have too many hiding spots).
Lighting
Exposure to UVA and UVB radiation by use of a special light designed for reptiles is extremely
important. Special fluroescent bulbs can be found at pet stores, and these will likely run the length
of the tank, but be sure they are overlap the basking area. Your bearded dragon should be able to
get within 6-8 inches of these lights to benefit from the UV emitted. The amount of UV produced by
these bulbs decreases over time so they need to be replaced as recommended by the
manufacturer. Mercury vapor bulbs provide both UVA/UVB and heat, and can be used for both UV
production and a basking lamp. It is important that UV producing lights be directed through a
screen top rather than glass to the UV rays can reach the lizards.
Exposure to sunlight (not through a window) can also be beneficial, but if time is provided
outdoors, shade and shelter must be available so the dragon can thermoregulate. Do not place
outside in a glass sided tank as overheating will quickly occur in the sunlight.
Temperatures
Proper temperatures are also extremely important. As with other reptiles, a temperature gradient
should be provided, as well as a basking spot. The gradient should go from 80-85 F (26-30 C) on
the cool side, up to a basking temperature of about 95-105 F (35 -40 C). Night time temperatures
can fall to approximately 65-70 F (18-21 C).
Heat can be provided via an incandescent light or ceramic heater (make sure a ceramic socket is
used), or a mercury vapor bulb (again, use a ceramic socket) in a dome reflector hood. You may
need to experiment with wattage and distance from the cage to provide appropriate temperatures.
Use thermometers in the cage to monitor the temperatures at the basking spot, as well as either
end of the gradient (never rely on estimates!). If necessary, and undertank heater can be used to
supplement the heat especially at night if the room temperature is very low. A consistent light-dark
cycle (12 - 14 hours light) must be provided (using the lights on a timer is the best way to ensure a
consistent cycle).
Water
Water should be provided in a shallow dish. They can also be misted lightly, but not enough to
make the environment wet or humid, however.
Omnivorous Diet
In the wild, bearded dragons are omnivores, eating a mixture of invertebrate and vertebrate prey
(such as insects and smaller animals) as well as plant material. In captivity, they should be fed a
combination of insects (mostly crickets, with a variety of other cultured insect prey) and greens and
vegetables.
Insects
Bearded dragons are prone to impaction of their digestive system, and the chitinous exoskeletons
of insect prey can cause problems. This is especially true of crunchy bugs like mealworms, so it is
best to feed these in limited quantities, especially to juveniles. Feeding insects right after a molt will
help reduce the chance of an impaction as the exoskeletons are not as tough. Crickets also should
not be too large, especially for baby bearded dragons (a rule of thumb: feed nothing bigger than
the distance between the bearded dragons eyes). Once bearded dragons become adults, you can
offer a wider range of insects such as waxworms, silkworms, butterworms, red worms, earthworms,
and newly molted mealworms and superworms. However, these should be considered "treats" with
crickets still making up the bulk of the diet. Pinkie mice can also be offered to adults occasionally.
Juveniles should be fed insects more often than adults. Feed jubeniles at least twice a day,
offering as many appropriately-sized insects as they will eat in 10 minutes or so. Don't feed until
the tank is heated up in the morning or just before the tank cools down at night, as the heat is
necessary for digestion. Adults can be fed insects once a day (for both juveniles and adults,
greens and vegetables can be available all the time).
Insects should be gut loaded (fed nutritious food that is then passed on to the lizard) prior to
feeding, and lightly dusted with a calcium and Vitamin D (no phosphorus) supplement at each
feeding. Dust with a complete multivitamin no more than once a week.
It is risky to feed wild caught insects due to the risk of pesticide contamination.One caution: do not
feed fireflies (lightning bugs) or boxelder bugs as these are believed to be toxic to bearded
dragons!
Greens and Vegetables
In addition to insects, bearded dragons should be fed a mixture of green leafy vegetables (e.g.
dandelion greens, collard greens, chickory greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, escarole,
parsley), other vegetables (e.g. squash, carrots, green beans, peas, bell peppers), and some
fruits (e.g. berries, apples, grapes, cantaloupe, papaya, mango, blueberries, bananas). The plant
portion of the diet should be about 20-30% of the diet. These items can be chopped up and mixed
together to make a salad, which can be fed in a shallow bowl. Leafy greens can also be clipped to
the side of the cage.
Commercial Diets
Commercial diets are becoming more available, but so far the long term success of these diets is
not well known. It is always best to feed as varied a diet as possible, so if these prepared diets are
used they should just be a supplement, not the sole source of nutrition.
Handling
As mentioned, bearded dragons are generally docile, and can be easily handled with minimal
socialization or effort into taming. It is important to scoop them up under the belly and support their
belly in the palm of your hand with your fingers gently curled over the body.
Their nails do get sharp, and should be trimmed regularly. They can be trimmed in a similar
fashion to iguana claws.
