Boa Care Page
By and large, the Boa Constrictor family have a placid temperament and are not renowned for
aggressive behavior. Young snakes may be a little snappy, but quickly grow out of this when handled on
a regular basis. Once removed from the tank a neonate Boa will be able to be handled easily and
although some of the subspecies have a reputation for being biters (the Argentines come to mind) this
will probably be the result of wild caught specimens which are understandably rather more aggressive.
ANY snake that is nervous, or has been badly treated will bite if it feels threatened, and Boas are no
exception, when faced with a Boa you don't know, and who doesn't know you, treat it with circumspection
until you are familiar with it. It is a generally agreed principal that the handling any snake over 6 foot
should not be undertaken alone for safety reasons, Boas fall into this category. Although Boas have
reasonable eyesight, and it is believed they have some colour vision, they principally hunt by smell. For
this reason it is imperative that after handling snake food you thoroughly wash your hands before
handling your Boa.
Housing Requirements
Boas come from a tropical to subtropical climate and need constant heat or they will die. For a normal
maintenance program (as opposed to a breeding program) the temperature in a Boas enclosure should
have a day time high (DTH) of the high 80's F and a night time low (NTL) of mid to high 70's.F. This will
equate to a DTH of 29C and a NTL of 24C. These temperatures should be considered to be ambient air
temperatures, and a warm spot should also be available for the snake to bask on. One of the important
requirements for keeping Boas is a temperature gradient within the tank, this means having a warmer
end and a cooler end. This allows the snake to regulate its own body temperature by moving within the
gradient. To achieve this gradient, either an under floor heat mat or a heat lamp at one end of the tank
can be used. Thermostatic controls in conjunction with an accurate thermometer are essential to
achieve the correct climate for your snake. Many of the cheap thermometers sold in pet shops for reptile
enclosures are of little use, and an accurate digital gauge should be purchased from the likes of Radio
Shack or Tandy. It is important that the snake has a broadly correct photo period during the day, that is
to say, that the light(s) in the tank is not left on 24 hours a day. Use a timer to give a day/night period
roughly corresponding to the season outside. A snake left in constant bright light will become stressed
which can manifest itself in many ways from aggression, to not eating, to health problems. Closely
associated with temperatures, is humidity. Boa Constrictors do not require the level of humidity of, say,
Epicrates, but if shedding problems are encountered, raising the background humidity may be
beneficial. A large water bowl left in a warm tank usually generates enough evaporation to fulfill the
requirements of these animals. Boas left in too humid conditions have been known to develop scale rot
on their belly scales, though this is usually associated with lack of cleanliness in the substrate as well. All
snakes NEED hides where they can feel secure, Boas are no exception. These can be as simple as
cardboard boxes with small entrance holes cut in them which can be discarded when soiled to attractive
hollow logs specially made for reptile tanks. The important criteria are that they must be clean, and a
fairly close fit for the snake. A small snake in a large hide feels nearly as vulnerable as it would without
any hide at all. Have several hides in your tank, at least have one warmer hide and a cooler hide, the
snake will spend much of its time in these hides, so keep them clean. A box with only one small entrance
isn't the best idea, getting the snake out may prove a problem, cut the base out so the box can be
removed easily. Young Boas seem to enjoy climbing, and a suitably cleaned and sterilised branch or
tree stem will be used by the snake. As the Boa gets bigger, finding a suitably strong branch will prove
more difficult, but with sufficient space in the tank this will prove an attractive and useful item. One of the
main problems associated with owning large snakes such as Boas is the size of the housing needed
when the snake has reached its full size at about 5 years old. A single Boa that has reached its adult
size will require about 10 square feet of floor space within its tank as a minimum. This equates to a bare
minimum of a 5x2 tank, about 2-3 foot high for a single specimen. A pair of Boas kept together may
require a 6x3 tank when full size, this is a substantial piece of furniture. Boas can easily live 25-30 years
and this tank will need to be in use for the majority of that time, in a small flat or apartment this would
take up a considerable amount of the available floor space.
Large tanks are usually constructed from plywood or chipboard with sliding glass doors at the front. In a
large (6 foot) tank, the glass should be either toughened or armoured similar to the type of glass used
in shop fronts. An all glass tank is much easier to clean and sterilise, but is very difficult to keep warm in
temperate countries. Consider lining the floor of a wooden tank with glass to aid cleaning.
The type of substrate used with Boas is largely a matter of individual choice. With young snakes, it is
often best to keep them on newspaper or kitchen towel for the first few months as they tend to defecate
regularly and it is easier to keep clean. Personally I use wood shavings (pine) on a newspaper base
which I find attractive and cheap. Beech chips and Orchid bark are attractive, but expensive options,
many professional breeders use newspaper all the time for it's ease of cleaning, but it is not the most
aesthetically pleasing choice. DO NOT use Ceder bark, which is commonly sold for rats, hamsters, mice,
etc. It contains oils that are very toxic to snakes and can lead to fatality. I spot clean any urates or feces
daily and change the entire substrate every 3 weeks or so, depending on how often it has been soiled.
IT IS IMPORTANT NOT TO FEED ON A SUBSTRATE OF WOOD SHAVINGS OR WOOD CHIPS. The
snake may ingest some of the wood with the food and the cellulose based wood cannot be digested by
the snake and results in an impacted blockage which initially causes constipation, and can eventually kill
the snake.
Feeding
Boa Constrictors will normally feed well on mice and rats, when fully grown, rabbit may be an option if
available. Young Boas are usually voracious eaters and can take fuzzy mice straight from birth. As with
all snakes, feed prey items (preferably dead, defrosted) that are the same diameter as the largest point
of the snakes body. Be sure the food is correctly thawed all the way through, warming the food to body
temperature is a good idea if possible. The use of microwaves for this is NOT recommended. Depending
on the individual snake, Boas are usually private eaters and prefer to be placed in a dark or opaque
container with the food item and left to get on with it, if disturbed they will regularly regurgitate a half
eaten meal and subsequently ignore it. Place the snake in a separate, clean container with the food
already there and close the lid. Leave the snake in there for 20 minutes or so for an adult, 5-10 minutes
for a juvenile. These times are what I have found from personal experience with my own Boas, your
individual snakes may vary considerably. Keeping the container reasonably warm is beneficial.
As with all snakes, keep the handling of a Boa after eating to the absolute minimum for 24 hours, apart
from the possibility of regurgitation, rough handling after a large meal can damage the snakes digestive
tract and may prove fatal.
Force feeding Boas with larger specimens will be all but impossible because of their great strength.
aggressive behavior. Young snakes may be a little snappy, but quickly grow out of this when handled on
a regular basis. Once removed from the tank a neonate Boa will be able to be handled easily and
although some of the subspecies have a reputation for being biters (the Argentines come to mind) this
will probably be the result of wild caught specimens which are understandably rather more aggressive.
ANY snake that is nervous, or has been badly treated will bite if it feels threatened, and Boas are no
exception, when faced with a Boa you don't know, and who doesn't know you, treat it with circumspection
until you are familiar with it. It is a generally agreed principal that the handling any snake over 6 foot
should not be undertaken alone for safety reasons, Boas fall into this category. Although Boas have
reasonable eyesight, and it is believed they have some colour vision, they principally hunt by smell. For
this reason it is imperative that after handling snake food you thoroughly wash your hands before
handling your Boa.
Housing Requirements
Boas come from a tropical to subtropical climate and need constant heat or they will die. For a normal
maintenance program (as opposed to a breeding program) the temperature in a Boas enclosure should
have a day time high (DTH) of the high 80's F and a night time low (NTL) of mid to high 70's.F. This will
equate to a DTH of 29C and a NTL of 24C. These temperatures should be considered to be ambient air
temperatures, and a warm spot should also be available for the snake to bask on. One of the important
requirements for keeping Boas is a temperature gradient within the tank, this means having a warmer
end and a cooler end. This allows the snake to regulate its own body temperature by moving within the
gradient. To achieve this gradient, either an under floor heat mat or a heat lamp at one end of the tank
can be used. Thermostatic controls in conjunction with an accurate thermometer are essential to
achieve the correct climate for your snake. Many of the cheap thermometers sold in pet shops for reptile
enclosures are of little use, and an accurate digital gauge should be purchased from the likes of Radio
Shack or Tandy. It is important that the snake has a broadly correct photo period during the day, that is
to say, that the light(s) in the tank is not left on 24 hours a day. Use a timer to give a day/night period
roughly corresponding to the season outside. A snake left in constant bright light will become stressed
which can manifest itself in many ways from aggression, to not eating, to health problems. Closely
associated with temperatures, is humidity. Boa Constrictors do not require the level of humidity of, say,
Epicrates, but if shedding problems are encountered, raising the background humidity may be
beneficial. A large water bowl left in a warm tank usually generates enough evaporation to fulfill the
requirements of these animals. Boas left in too humid conditions have been known to develop scale rot
on their belly scales, though this is usually associated with lack of cleanliness in the substrate as well. All
snakes NEED hides where they can feel secure, Boas are no exception. These can be as simple as
cardboard boxes with small entrance holes cut in them which can be discarded when soiled to attractive
hollow logs specially made for reptile tanks. The important criteria are that they must be clean, and a
fairly close fit for the snake. A small snake in a large hide feels nearly as vulnerable as it would without
any hide at all. Have several hides in your tank, at least have one warmer hide and a cooler hide, the
snake will spend much of its time in these hides, so keep them clean. A box with only one small entrance
isn't the best idea, getting the snake out may prove a problem, cut the base out so the box can be
removed easily. Young Boas seem to enjoy climbing, and a suitably cleaned and sterilised branch or
tree stem will be used by the snake. As the Boa gets bigger, finding a suitably strong branch will prove
more difficult, but with sufficient space in the tank this will prove an attractive and useful item. One of the
main problems associated with owning large snakes such as Boas is the size of the housing needed
when the snake has reached its full size at about 5 years old. A single Boa that has reached its adult
size will require about 10 square feet of floor space within its tank as a minimum. This equates to a bare
minimum of a 5x2 tank, about 2-3 foot high for a single specimen. A pair of Boas kept together may
require a 6x3 tank when full size, this is a substantial piece of furniture. Boas can easily live 25-30 years
and this tank will need to be in use for the majority of that time, in a small flat or apartment this would
take up a considerable amount of the available floor space.
Large tanks are usually constructed from plywood or chipboard with sliding glass doors at the front. In a
large (6 foot) tank, the glass should be either toughened or armoured similar to the type of glass used
in shop fronts. An all glass tank is much easier to clean and sterilise, but is very difficult to keep warm in
temperate countries. Consider lining the floor of a wooden tank with glass to aid cleaning.
The type of substrate used with Boas is largely a matter of individual choice. With young snakes, it is
often best to keep them on newspaper or kitchen towel for the first few months as they tend to defecate
regularly and it is easier to keep clean. Personally I use wood shavings (pine) on a newspaper base
which I find attractive and cheap. Beech chips and Orchid bark are attractive, but expensive options,
many professional breeders use newspaper all the time for it's ease of cleaning, but it is not the most
aesthetically pleasing choice. DO NOT use Ceder bark, which is commonly sold for rats, hamsters, mice,
etc. It contains oils that are very toxic to snakes and can lead to fatality. I spot clean any urates or feces
daily and change the entire substrate every 3 weeks or so, depending on how often it has been soiled.
IT IS IMPORTANT NOT TO FEED ON A SUBSTRATE OF WOOD SHAVINGS OR WOOD CHIPS. The
snake may ingest some of the wood with the food and the cellulose based wood cannot be digested by
the snake and results in an impacted blockage which initially causes constipation, and can eventually kill
the snake.
Feeding
Boa Constrictors will normally feed well on mice and rats, when fully grown, rabbit may be an option if
available. Young Boas are usually voracious eaters and can take fuzzy mice straight from birth. As with
all snakes, feed prey items (preferably dead, defrosted) that are the same diameter as the largest point
of the snakes body. Be sure the food is correctly thawed all the way through, warming the food to body
temperature is a good idea if possible. The use of microwaves for this is NOT recommended. Depending
on the individual snake, Boas are usually private eaters and prefer to be placed in a dark or opaque
container with the food item and left to get on with it, if disturbed they will regularly regurgitate a half
eaten meal and subsequently ignore it. Place the snake in a separate, clean container with the food
already there and close the lid. Leave the snake in there for 20 minutes or so for an adult, 5-10 minutes
for a juvenile. These times are what I have found from personal experience with my own Boas, your
individual snakes may vary considerably. Keeping the container reasonably warm is beneficial.
As with all snakes, keep the handling of a Boa after eating to the absolute minimum for 24 hours, apart
from the possibility of regurgitation, rough handling after a large meal can damage the snakes digestive
tract and may prove fatal.
Force feeding Boas with larger specimens will be all but impossible because of their great strength.